Travel Information
Getting There:
乔家大院Qiao family's compound, like the other well-known merchant's residents such as 曹Cao, 常Chang, 渠Qu, and the 王Wang family compounds, are concentrated in the heart of Shanxi province 晋中. Most of these mansions are within less than an hour of one another, and they are plotted along a single major path. So, if anyone wishes to visit them can easily design a simple itinerary, which is basically up and down the 108 National Highway. After seeing the incredibly large walled town of the 王家大院Wang compound,
I moved up to the culturally-rich county of 祁县Qixian. From Qixian the Qiao compound is about 10-12 km away, and getting there took about 25 mins. on bus. Buses getting out of the county just parked along the main road not far outside the Old Town. I hopped on the one that has a sign to 东观Dongguan (ticket: 2.5 yuan), which is the town where the compound is located. It is on the northeast of Qixian county. In less than half hour I was there. Like all the other compounds, out above the road was a billboard advertising the grandness of what you will see. My bus made a quick halt on the road and I hopped out. I was the only one of course, because all the thousands of tourists that day came loaded on luxury buses that filled the wide parking lot. just before the parking space was a large flying horse sculpture ( like the well-know flying horse of Gansu ),
and a single large boulder with the characters 「乔家大院」"Qiao family's compound" carved on it. After passing the parking square, I have to squeeze through a kilometer of vendors leading to the entrance, which was a few turns in the village - aptly called 乔家堡村( Qiao family's village ). After passing all the vendors, I came to the impassable wall of very passionate tourists - all prepared with umbrellas, folding fans and digital cameras. And the tour guides with their bright and battery rich speakers just blasting away one after another. It was a hot and sunny day. Sweat naturally streamed out and with my dirty backpack and tripod, I looked like an angry hulk. But no one made way. I looked more like a lost orphan and people simply passed me. After much effort, I made it in. And of course inside was as packed as outside.
It was not difficult to figure out why this place has such enormous crowds. On the main hallway walls were posters of the latest drama that set place here, one among 50 others - including Zhang Yimou's 《大红灯笼高高挂》"Raise the Red Lantern".
To get to the compound from 太原市Taiyuan city, take the bus to Yixian county at the 建南汽车站Jiannan Bus Station (South Bus Station). On the way, about 10 km. before reaching the county you should see a large billboard advertising Qiao family's compound. It is a hot spot, you can't miss it. You will see a large flying horse sculpture and a large parking area. Ask to be dropped off here if you are only interested in visiting the compound and not bother going to the county.
The most comfortable and quickest way to get to the compound from Qixian is of course hiring a taxi. This would cost anywhere from Y10 - Y25, depending on the driver's mood.
Accomodations:
It is best to live in Qixian county where you will have more options. You will eventually want to be in the county because the excellent 渠家大院Qu family's compound, which is inside the county and in the Old Town. The Old Town is another reason to be there. It retains the look and layout of the 明Ming and 清Qing dynasty streets. But if you must stay in the area for a longer visit, there are always guesthouses closeby. I did not consciously look for them, but in a hotspot like this, lacking accommodations is unimaginable.
Entrance Ticket:
40 Yuan. Summer 2006.